Never-Ending Binding

I am going to try to be a better blogger!

To get you up to running speed, I've been running an online Etsy shop since I closed my brick & mortar shop. I'm selling my remaining inventory, some new inventory, as well as the handmade items I've decided that I can part with. This includes quilts, table runners, and other fabric items. Even after a year and a half, I still have items to list. If you get a chance, please visit my store at www.etsy.com/shop/ChesterCountyQuiltng.

Today, due to a friend's request, I'm going to post a step-by-step tutorial on my Never-Ending Binding. The binding isn't actually never-ending, but I call it that because you can't tell where it started and where it ended. Unlike some bindings that require special tools, mathematical equations (which I'm very good at, by the way), or overlapping the end of your binding strip over the beginning edge, my technique gives you a smooth binding that goes all the way around with minimal trouble. I like presenting it in photo format so you can see each step along the way and really get a good look at what needs to be done. You've probably done most of it this way already. My special twist comes when you connect the two ends.

So, here we go:

Cut your binding to your preferred width. I used 2.25" in the example. I find this width gives me binding that is about the same on the front and the back. Be sure to cut enough strips to go around the quilt, plus at least another 10 or 12".

Attach all your strips together at a 90 degree angle, sewing from point to point. You can mark this with a pencil if you need to at first. The more you do this, the more proficient you'll become, and you'll be able to eyeball it with ease.

Here's what your seam should look like.

Trim off the excess fabric, leaving a 1/4" or 3/8" seam allowance.

Press the seams OPEN. Do not press to one side like you did while making your quilt. We are trying to eliminate any excess bulk in the binding.  

Now, press your binding in half, wrong side in, along the entire length of your binding strip.

Starting on one of the longer sides of your project, lay your binding down along the edge of your quilt, aligning the raw edges. Leave a tail of binding at least 6" long, then start sewing the binding to the FRONT of your quilt, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Some people find it helpful to use a walking foot for this step.

Stop sewing 1/4" before you reach the corner of your quilt. I like to back stitch here for the sake of security. Cut the thread, and remove from under your presser foot.

Holding your project with the binding on the edge that's away from you, take the unattached portion of your binding, and fold it up and away from you at a 90 degree angle. Make sure the raw edges are in a straight line from the quilt top to the binding.

Hold your finger on the corner, and then pull the binding down towards you, leaving the mitered fold in the corner. The folded binding should line up with the edge of the quilt.

Once you've made your fold, start sewing the binding to the next side of your quilt. Your stitching should start at the very edge of the seam. You will then repeat the previous directions: stop sewing 1/4" before the edge of the quilt. Cut your thread, turn your binding, fold your binding, and start sewing again from the edge. Repeat this process for all four corners.

After you torn the fourth corner, stop sewing when you're about 12" away from where you started sewing. Take your project to the ironing board. Fold the right tail down at a 90 degree angle towards you, and fold the left tail at a 90 degree angle away from you. Depending on the size of your quilt, the two folds should be 1/4" to 3/8" apart. It is very important to make sure the two folds DO NOT TOUCH!

Press the folds down to crease them.

VERY CAREFULLY, cut the top half of the folded binding only, not both layers. Your cuts should be about 1/4" to 3/8" away from the pressed crease. Cut until your reach to fold.

Here's what your two cuts should look like at this stage.

Now, open up the binding and finish your cuts, continuing along the same angle you started in the last step. There will be no pressed fold to guide you, so just eyeball it. Piece of cake, right?

Here's what your cut ends will look like.

Now, using the slack you have because you left 6" tails on either side, bring your two raw edges together and pin them using a couple of straight pins. Don't forget the your seam line will be 1/4" from the edge, so be sure that your have dog ears at both ends.

Here's what your pinned seam will look like.

Set your seam under your presser foot, remove the first pin and sew.

Carefully sew your seam, trying not to stretch the bias.

Here's what your sewn seam will look like. 

Carefully press your seam allowance open. Remember, you are working with stretchy bias.

Fold your binding in half, and press it back into shape, aligning it with the edge of your quilt.

Here's what your biding should look like at this stage.

Finish stitching your seam closed.

This is what your closing seam allowance should look like. Notice that the 1/4" gap we left has disappeared, resulting in a nice smooth binding with to puckers or tucks.

I always hand turn my bindings. It's usually the only handwork I ever do on my quilts. I start 2" or 3" from a corner. Tie a knot in your thread, and push the needle through from the front to the back, a few threads inside of your stitching line.

Take a stitch into the very edge of the binding fold from bottom to top. Your binding should just cover the machine sewn seam.

Using a tiny whip stitch, stitch until you reach the seam of the side on your left.

Carefully miter fold your corner.

Stitch the mitered fold closed, continuing to use tiny stitches.

When you reach the outside corner, poke your needle through to the front and sew the outside miter. When you reach the inside corner, poke your needle back through to the back, and continue turning your binding. Try to use the smallest stitch you can so your sewing disappears.

Here's what your turned corner should look like.

Keep stitching until you reach your starting point. Yippee! You're done! Add a label to commemorate the occasion, and your project is ready to use!

I hope this photo tutorial helps you put a great-looking binding on every project. And just in case you didn't notice, there was no math! No special tools! No goofy-looking starting and stopping points.

Let me know what you think. I appreciate all feedback.